1. The heart of grading: the grade-rule table
Grading is not a uniform proportional scale-up; it sets the difference between adjacent sizes (the grade rule) for each key measurement point. Typical womenswear grade rules:
| Measurement point | Adjacent-size grade rule (typical) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Bust / waist / hip | 4 cm | The main circumference grade rule |
| Garment length / skirt length | 2–2.5 cm | Take the lower value for short styles |
| Shoulder width | 1–1.2 cm | Shoulder width grows more slowly than circumference |
| Sleeve length | 1–1.5 cm | Linked to shoulder width |
| Cuff / neckline | 0.5–1 cm | Small points, small grade rules |
There is no single national standard for grade rules — they vary widely between brands and markets (EU/US sizes versus Asian sizes). Buyers should supply their own size chart, and the factory grades to it; without one, the factory applies the conventional grade rules of the target market, but you must check size by size when approving the first sample.
2. Three typical consequences of a grading error
- Small sizes distort: when pieces shrink, the darts and pocket placement are not adjusted in step — a chest pocket dropping to the waistline on a small size is the most common complaint;
- Large sizes lose balance: the circumference grows but the armhole depth does not deepen with it, leaving large sizes too wide and too short;
- Craft positions drift: embroidery, printing and pocket positions do not move proportionally with each size, so the decoration sits differently from size to size.
That is exactly why embroidery, printing and rhinestone work need a separate placement template for every size — a point our earlier craft series kept returning to.
3. Lead time and acceptance
CAD grading of a style is done within half a day. Acceptance is straightforward: have the factory make a sample of every size, or at least the two ends (smallest + largest), for approval. Approving only the middle size before going to bulk is the single biggest source of grading risk.
Grading is a data process: whether the grade-rule table is right decides whether your XL customer buys the garment from the sketch — or a distorted, blown-up toy version of it.